Ocean to Near-Shore Wave Modelling with SWAN

Abstract

The third-generation shallow water wave model SWAN is continually being updated to improve or extend its scientific and operational performance for applications in coastal engineering. The latest improvements and extensions include (nearly) diffusion-free propagation on any arbitrary scale (operational) and interaction between swell and windsea (experimental). Some effects of these improvements and extensions are shown in this study with a case of a major storm in the North Sea. The wave field is computed from the North Atlantic Ocean, through the North Sea to behind the barrier islands of The Netherlands with a resolution varying from 50 km to 40m. Some comparisons with observations are made.